I Shall Return

"I shall return." as what General Douglas McArthur have vowed, will surely be the three little words you'll say once you've visited the equally historical and fun province of Leyte. What else can I say, I grew up in this place and never was a day that I wish I wasn't. Take it from me, this province is not that fast-lane-type like other provinces gleaming with city lights, but the ambiance is just right. Not too frantic but not too boring. This may be a biased opinion, but living in Leyte is amazing. So visiting the place won't be such a bad idea. Want to unwind and escape the stress of the fast city life? Then Leyte will be a wonderful place to be. There will be a long list of places to go, so you can take your pick.

Let's Have a Glimpse Leyte's History

In 1521, Magellan sailed from the island of Homonhon, Samar to the island of Limasawa, Leyte, entered into a blood compact with Rajah Kolambu. On Eastern Sunday, March 31, of that year, was celebrated the First Mass in the Philippines. Some historical researchers, however, are now disputing this.

By 1768, Leyte, now separated from Samar, became a politico-military province. The set up continued until the end of Spanish rule, when Gen. Vicente Lukban took over Leyte and Samar in the name of the Revolutionary Government.

It was WWII, however, which placed Leyte on the world map. On October 20, 1944, Gen. Mac Arthur, at the head of the largest US fleet of transport and warships, and accompanied by Commonwealth President Sergio Osmeña and Gen Carlos P. Romulo, landed on Palo, Leyte to reclaim the Philippines from the Japanese. 

Since the province has made its mark in the history of the Philippines, then you should expect to see historical sites. Some of these historic sites are McArthur’s Landing Memorial marking the spot of his promised return, old Spanish houses in Baybay, and the Filipino Soldier Monument.

Festivals of Leyte

Did I not say about Leyte being equally historical and fun? Then to enjoy the best of both worlds, experience the colorful festivals. And tell you this, take a pick of what month you want to visit and there is surely a festival you'll look forward to.

Tacloban Festival (Last week of June) 

The Tacloban Festival kicks off with the Subiran Regatta, an annual sailboat race held at the eastern entrance of the San Juanico Strait.

The Balyu- an / Pintados Festival

A pageant re-enacting the historical exchange of images between Barrio Buscada of Basey, Samar, and Tacloban City, which highlights the annual fiesta of the Sto. Niño in Leyte. Also there is the Pintados Festival, which revives the tradition of painting the body and dancing to the rhythm of bamboo sticks. On the last day is the Tacloban City Festival-celebrating the homecoming of its Sto. Niño image marked by much merrymaking in the usual grand fiesta tradition.

Subiran Regatta (June)

An annual contest held along the eastern portion of Leyte Gulf. The regatta is participated in by different fishermen living along the fishermen's villages of Leyte and Samar. "Suviran" is a native sailboat with outriggers used in small scale fishing. The race is done without using a paddle but only skill and technique to maneuver the sail. The race is held within the Cancabato Bay Area.

Torugpo (Black Saturday)

An exciting traditional jousts of native carabaos (pasungay) and horses (paaway) at Bgy. Camansi, Carigara. It was held 300 years ago in defiance to the rigid regulations of the Spanish friars. The yearly carnival offers a complimentary treat to foreign tourists.

Sunduan Ha Carigara ( Easter Sunday)

An annual homecoming of Holy Cross Academy alumni of Carigara, Leyte. The celebration consists of cultural, social and religious activities-float parade & contest depicting the rich history of Carigara; cockfighting, songs, dances and drama contests; barrio fiesta; and observance of Lent.

Pamalandong (Holy Week in Palo Pilgrimage) - Good Friday

A re-enactment of the Lord's Passion celebrated in Palo, a municipality 11 km. away from Tacloban City. It consists of the religious rituals which starts 12:00 at noon at the grounds of the Palo Cathedral. The Good Friday rites include "The seven Last Words" during which the crucified image of Christ (a wooden antique image probably hundred of years old and ingeniously provided with a mechanism by its unknown artist) reacts to each word, until the final death and removal from the cross.

A quaint Good Friday local custom is the gathering of the leaves from the mock-forest where the three crosses stand by the people believing they bring luck, cure illness and other attributes.

This is followed by the procession that includes all the biblical characters of the Passion Play and this caps the rituals for the Good Friday.

Balyuan (June 29)

A pageant re-enacting the historical exchange of images between Barrio Buscada of Basey, Samar and Sitio Kankabatok now Tacloban City. It is held in the afternoon and highlights the annual fiesta of Santo Niño de Leyte.

Pintados De Leyte Festival (June)

The custom of tattooing earned for the Leyteños the name of Pintados. From ancient history, Roman conquests also made mention of tattooed people in Britons, Saitas, Oriental Tartar, Macasar and other parts of the world. The origin of the practice is different to determine but the strongest contention is that an ancient priestess instigated it and through the members of her cult, began the custom.

The tattoos, however, became distinctive marks of courage and generally made the origin, orientation and livelihood of the bearer identifiable. The most basic design of tattoos began from ankle to groin and consisted of two bonds a finger or almost two in width. The tattoo in the chest were made like breastplates. When the tattooers did their work more artistically, they left between the bond (which were colored blue) and white designs.

When the missionaries from Spain arrived in Leyte, they found the Pintados gruesome but later learned to appreciate the happy contentment and beauty of the people. With the coming of the Spaniards, the people learned new ways of life and blended this with neo-pagan ways of the Pintados.

Even today, the happy blend exists in the customs and practices of Leyte. The Leyteños have retained their cultural roots while assimilating the changes that progress brings.

Leyte Landing Anniversary (October20)

A commemorative program which marks the anniversary of the October 20, 1944 landing on Leyte of the Allied Forces of Liberation. Gen. Douglas Mac Arthur and his men waded ashore at "Red Beach" in the town of Palo where statues of the liberations now stand. The historic event is usually attended by high ranking government officials and the ambassadors of the United States, Japan and Australia. World War II veterans come on sentimental journey.

Grand Santa Cruzan (May)

A parade and contest of "parol" (lantern) with beautiful "sagalas" participated in by the different barangays of Tacloban. It starts at the historic Leyte Provincial Capitol terrace and ends at Plaza Rizal (one and a half-hour procession) where the winners are proclaimed. Criteria include greatest number of sagalas and participants, most artistic lantern, best lighting and most disciplined group. The Search for Reyna Elena is the culmination of the Grand Santa Cruzan. The selection's criteria includes beauty, poise, social graces, talent and intelligence. After the proclamation of the winners, the coronation and the giving of awards and prizes follows.

Pahoy-Pahoy (May) - Barugo Leyte. Scarecrow festival.

Fourth Provincial Inter-High School Tourism Quiz (August) - Region-wide

A tourism quiz covering regional, national and international topic.

Pasaka Festival (August) - Tanauan, Leyte

A dance parade and cultural presentation (comparza) "Pasaka" connotes warm welcome, progress, and religious homage.

Third Regional Tourism Quiz (September) - Tacloban City

A tourism quiz covering regional, national, and international topic.

Lubi - Lubi Festival (August 15) - Calubian, Leyte. A festival showing various uses of the coconut tree and its by-products thru dances and street revelry.

Calbayog Grand Karakol (October) - Calbayog City

Joyous street pageantry of dancing devotees. 

Christmas Festival in Palo (December) - Palo, Leyte

A week-long celebration of Christmas which includes Simbang Gabi, Drum and Bugle Corps Competition. Christmas Cultural Show and a contest for Best Lighted Barangay, Best Belen, and Lantern Contest.

Did you know?

On May 22, 1959, the province was divided into Leyte and Southern Leyte. In 1992 Biliran became a separate province of its own.

Leyte is now divided into three provinces: Leyte, Biliran and Southern Leyte. Southern Leyte is includes the island of Panaon. Biliran is a small island on the northern coast connected from the Leyte mainland by a bridge.

The major cities in Leyte are, , Tacloban City, Ormoc City on the northwest of Leyte, Bayabay City on the western coast, and Maasin City on the south.

Recently, Tacloban City turned into a Highly Urbanized City ( HUC), by virtue of the November 2008 plebiscite. As a Highly Urbanized City, it is independent of the supervision of the Leyte Province, and a lone congressional district. Proponents of the HUC status believed that by being an HUC Tacloban City government will attract more investors and business.

Leyte is known for the Tongonan Geothermal Power Plant in Tongonan, a demonstration of using natural resources to provide electricity to the province and even neighbouring islands.

The prime exports of Leyte include coconut, and abaca. It is also the home of coconut wine called “tuba”. Aged for six months to a year, this “tuba” is then called bahalina, priced liquor in every occasion. The municipality of Palo is known for its smooth bahalina, whose recipes and techniques are guarded family secrets.

The town of Dagami in Leyte produces binagol, moron, sagmanai and roscas. These delicacies are a must-have in every town fiesta, and occasions. Binagol (sweetened taro pudding with nuts) is made from talyan - a root crop specie like gabi that is endemic to Palapag Northern Samar. Talyan is grounded, and mixed with eggs, coconut milk, sugar, butter, nuts and chocolate. The mix is packed into the half of a polished coconut shell called “bagol,” covered with banana leaves steamed, tied securely with a string, and then steamed. Hence the name binagol which means placed in a “bagol”.

“Moron” is pronounced with a stress on the second syllable. It is made of ground rice cooked in coconut milk, flavored with tablea, and wrapped in banana leaf. Sagmani is another suman made of gabi or sweet potatoes cooked with coconut cream, sugar and sometimes coconut meat.

Places to Go and Sites to See

No need for time machines, you could go visit the past!

Gen. Douglas Macarthur Landing Memorial

The Liberation of the Philippines by the Allied Forces in 1944 headed by the party of Gen. McArthur is immortalized by life sized statues in Red Beach, Palo, Leyte. This event is celebrated annually every 20th of October. It is also the site of the 50th Leyte Landing Anniversary Commemorative Rock Garden of Peace.

Hill 522 Ginhangdan Hill

Ginhangdan Hill is entrance to the first liberated town of Palo in 1944 . The town suffered heavy bombardment to destroy the garrisons built by the Japanese artillery units. Foxholes built by the Japanese still exist. A memorial marker built by Mie Prefecture in memory of the lives lost in the battle. Guinhangdan is in Palo, Leyte, 12 kilometers form Tacloban.

Hill 120

Hill 120 is also called Catmon Hill which is located in Dulag Leyte. On October 20, 1944, the first American flag was raised by the Liberation Forces on this hill after heavy fighting. The Hill offers a panoramic view of Leyte Gulf and surrounding coastal towns. A historical park, it features a landscaped garden with tropical flowers and shrubs with benches, and concrete tables with canopy as well as restrooms. There is also an open-air stage where memorial programs are held annually.

Battle of Baluarte Marker

Baluarte in Brgy. Minuhang, Barugo, Leyte, is the site of the historic battle between Filipino guerrillas and Japanese Imperial Forces at dawn of August 24, 1944. The Battle of Baluarte suffered no casualty on the Filipino guerilla’s side while everyone in the Japanese Imperial Army was all killed except for one.

Hilongos Bell Tower

The Hilongos Bell Tower is the highest existing bell tower built during the Spanish era. The Bell Tower also served as watch post for marauding pirates from the south in Mindanao.

Japanese War Memorial Cemetery

The Japanese War Memorial Cemetery in Brgy. San Diego, Burauen is one of the few Japanese cemeteries in Leyte. Thousand of Japanese soldiers are buried in this cemetery. Japanese tour groups frequently visit the site to pay respects to the Japanese soldiers who died in the bloody battle of 1944. A remnant of the airfield built by the Japanese Imperial Army during World War II still exists for visitors to see.

Buga-Buga Hills

Buga Buga Hills was the mountain stronghold of Gen. Suzuki. Thousands of Japanese soldiers died defending Buga Buga Hills from the Allied Forces, who also lost a huge number of their men in an effort to cordon off the hill and isolate the Japanese troops. Buga Buga is another favourite among Japanese Tour groups. Bone hunting expeditions are also popular in the area. Buga Buga Hills is located in Villaba Leyte.

Philippine-Japan Peace Memorial

This impressive memorial in Carlota Hills, Ormoc City was a gift from the Nagoya and Gifu Prefectures. A token of friendship and peace form the Japanese people to the Philippines. La Carlota Hills affords visitors with a panoramic view of Ormoc City.

Boy Scout Monument 

The Boy Scout Monument is the very first Boy Scout Monument created in human form in 1941. It is found in a Rotunda at Fatima Village, Tacloban City on the way to the airport.

Monument of the Filipino Soldier

The monument is a tribute to the Filipino World War II soldiers and veterans who offered their supreme sacrifice for the freedom. Located in the Rotunda at Brgy. Pawing, Palo, Leyte.

Palo Metropolitan Cathedral

The Palo Cathedral was built by Augustinian friars in 1596. The church was converted into an evacuation hospital of the Allied Forces of Liberation and a refuge of civilians during World War II. From the Church, can be seen the famous Hill 522. The Cathedral features artworks in intricate finishing by local artisans such as the gold-plated altar and carved Stations of the Cross.

Sta. Fe Community Museum

The Community Museum in Sta. Fe is a fine example of historical awareness on grassroots level. Initiated by the municipal government of Sta.Fe, the museum was built to house antiques dating back to the Spanish per, Chinese porcelain jars, and WW II mementos. The museum is in the compound of the Sta. Fe Municipal Hall

Nature at it's Best!

San Juanico Strait

The world’s narrowest yet most navigable strait lies between the islands of Samar and Leyte. Beautiful islets are scattered on this emerald green waters punctuated by infinite whirlpools. Most ideal for kayaking, and snorkelling.

Tadyaw Beach Resort

Hands down, this is one of the best beach resort in Leyte, on the Pacific side. Tadyaw, in Tolosa Leyte is a landscaped garden resort, with manicured lawns. It has abundant space in between picnic kiosks, good shower area, and outstanding restrooms. The sparkling jet black sand beach is a good site for skim boarding. The resort has a small restaurant that serves short orders.

Mt. Kankahanay

A virgin forest at 4,000 ft. above sea level. Mt. Kankahay in Jaro Leyte is a haven for hunting game, but shooting game is no longer advised. A good site for mountain climbing.

Mahagnao National Park

Mahagnao National Park in Burauen is an established national park since 1937. It is a dormant with a huge crater turned that turned into a lake. There are multiple hot springs for soaking, and lagoons for swimming. See beautiful giant ferns, wild orchids, and wild birds.

Leyte Mountain Trail 

The Leyte Mountain Trail is an outstanding trekking area which starts from the Mahagnao Natural Park in, Burauen to Lake Danao Natural Park in Ormoc, a distance of approximately 40 km. This rainforest tour of three to four days takes you to the beautiful lakes of – Mahagnao, Malagsum, Casudsu-ran and Danao. Be amazed by the spectacular Guinaniban Falls, and the breathtaking view of mountains, forests, plains and the island of Samar and Leyte from the crest of the central Amandiwing Mountain Range. Enjoy the heady profusion of tropical flora and fauna including colourful insects, butterflies, dragonflies, bugs, giant millipedes, deers, wild boars, monkeys, birds, orchids, and giant ferns. There are four resting huts along the trail. At present the trail currently closed to hikers and mountaineers for security reason. An alternative route is to visit each part from separate entry points – Mahagnao in Buarauen, and Lake Danao in Ormoc. We will update you as soon as this trail is declared open. 

Tongonan Hotsprings National Park

The Tongonan Geothermal Power Plant is located inside the Tongonan Hotsprings National Park. This is the first geothermal power plant to operate in the Philippines. This valley of geothermal power can supply electricity to the whole region when fully developed.

Kalanggaman Island, Palompon Leyte.

Kalanggaman is a two hectare small island paradise between north of Cebu and Leyte. The island belongs to the town of Palompon, Leyte; it is about an hour ride by boat either from Palompon or Villaba, Leyte. The island has two white sand bars, one which protrudes towards the east and the other at the southern end. The eastern sand bar stretches for more than 200 meters into the sea, while the other one is only half as long which is submerged under water during high tides. There are no inhabitants except for fishermen who make the island as their rest stop before they embark again for fishing. The crossing from Kalanggaman to Leyte is noted to be treacherous especially towards late in the afternoon. It is always advised to go there in the morning.

Tabuk Marine Sanctuary, Tabuk, Palompon

Tabuk Island is a mangrove sanctuary protected by the municipality of Palompon. The 3-storey watch-tower in Tabuk Island is perfect for viewing the mangrove forest, and the adjacent main town of Palompon. It is also perfect for catching the colourful sunsets. A boardwalk through the mangrove forest takes you to see numerous fishes swimming freely. Wild ducks and migratory birds make this spot a stopover in their journey. On the other side of the mangrove is thousands of sleeping giant bats hanging upside down on trees. There are also picnic cottages next to the sea for swimming.

Lake Danao

Located in Ormoc City, 125 km. from Tacloban City. A violin-shaped lake 2,100 feet above sea level and 3 km, long; hemmed by cloud-capped-mountain ranges of undetermined depth; wild animals roaming its surrounding forest; hunter’s paradise; lake said to be the habitat of giant eel.

Cuatro Islas ( Four Islands)

A forty-five minute pumpboat ride off the coast of Inopacan town in Leyte are four lovely islands namely, Digyo, Apid, Mahaba, and Himokilan. These small islands are bordered by fine white sand and beautiful coral gardens, the best in Leyte Island. A total of 287 species of reef building corals can be found in the islands waters. Cuatro Islas is also a rich fishing ground. Himokilan, the largest of the four, and Mahaba Islands are both inhabited. Himokilan is home to the big and delicious coconut-cracking crabs called. Digyo, the smallest of the four, is a declared sea turtle sanctuary. With only four families living in it, Digyo is practically empty except for coconut trees, shrubs, grasses, and fine white sand. There are no beach resorts in the four islands; therefore it is a must to bring lots of water and food for the day.

Mt. Pangasugan Ecopark

This jungle valley in Brgy. Pangasugan, Baybay, Leyte was once the research site of a team of scientist from nearby Visayas State University (former VISCA) whose aim was to study and catalogue endemic flora and fauna among others. The local government turned the valley into an Ecopark when the research ended. Pangasugan is one of the few remaining virgin rainforests in the Philippines. Its rich ecosystem includes plant and animal species many of which are considered endangered like flying lemurs and tarsiers. Guided tours to the jungle is available at the Baybay Tourism Office.